The Best In-Clinic Treatments for Hyperpigmentation in Skin of Colour
Smita Ahluwalia is an award-winning facialist with over 30 years of experience in the skincare industry. As the founder of Smita London, she combines cutting-edge technology with holistic therapies to create bespoke treatments that deliver real, lasting results. She seamlessly integrates her South Asian heritage into her treatments, which address everything from acne and pigmentation to advanced signs of ageing. She is particularly passionate about skin of colour and the menopause.
Hyperpigmentation remains one of the most persistent and challenging concerns among my skin of colour clients. Whether the underlying cause is post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), melasma, or sun-induced damage, treating excess pigment in darker skin tones demands precision, care and an understanding of the unique biology of melanin-rich skin. Especially since many modalities that deliver excellent results safely and easily in lighter skin, can be more unpredictable if the practitioner is not properly educated.
In my clinic, the goal is twofold: achieve measurable brightening results while avoiding post-treatment inflammation or pigment rebound. Below, I explore the most effective and evidence-backed in-clinic treatments for hyperpigmentation in skin of colour.
Understanding hyperpigmentation in melanin-rich skin
In skin types IV–VI on the Fitzpatrick scale, melanocytes are more active and responsive to inflammation. Even mild trauma, from acne lesions, aggressive peels, or laser heat, can trigger excess melanin production. This is why clients with darker skin are more prone to PIH and why treatment protocols must prioritise barrier integrity and inflammation control.
A successful approach combines controlled exfoliation, pigment inhibition, and barrier repair, supported by diligent SPF use and home care.
The Green Peel
This is one of my favourite treatments for skin of colour and it's been around for over 60 years. The Green Peel is a natural, herbal peeling treatment that uses a blend of botanicals and enzymes to stimulate cellular turnover without synthetic acids or harsh chemicals. Its unique mechanism is micro-stimulation rather than chemical exfoliation which makes it particularly well-suited to skin of colour, where avoiding inflammation is crucial
How it Works
The Green Peel involves a mixture of crushed herbs and minerals rich in vitamins, enzymes, and trace elements. These active particles are massaged into the skin, increasing blood circulation, oxygenation, and metabolism. The time spent scrubbing depends on the severity of the skin concern and your client’s skin sensitivity.
Over the following days, the skin experiences a natural renewal process, shedding dull, pigmented layers while boosting collagen and cell regeneration.
Why it’s ideal for skin of colour
Unlike traditional acid peels, The Green Peel does not rely on low pH or caustic exfoliants so there is no risk of a chemical burn, which can be especially disastrous in skin of colour. It is also anti-inflammatory by design. Herbal components such as horsetail, aloe, and pansy calm the skin while promoting even regeneration. I also love the customisability. You can really adjust the intensity to suit all skin types.
Clients typically see smoother, brighter, and more even-toned skin after a course of treatments, without the risk of post-peel darkening common with stronger chemical peels.
Superficial to medium-depth chemical peels
(Used with caution)
Chemical peeling remains a cornerstone in pigmentation management, but with skin of colour, formula selection and application control are critical. Safe options include:
Mandelic acid (20–40%) – An alpha hydroxy acid derived from bitter almonds. Its larger molecular size penetrates more slowly, reducing irritation while gently accelerating cell turnover.
Lactic acid (10–30%) – A hydrating exfoliant that brightens and refines texture without excessive peeling.
Azelaic acid and phytic acid blends – Target melanogenesis while reducing inflammation.
What to avoid
Avoid high-strength glycolic or trichloroacetic acid (TCA) peels unless performed under medical supervision and with extensive pre- and post-treatment pigmentation control. Always prime the skin with tyrosinase inhibitors (such as kojic acid or arbutin) and ensure consistent sunscreen use post-treatment.
Microneedling with brightening serums
Microneedling, or collagen induction therapy, offers dual benefits - stimulating dermal regeneration, helping bank collagen and improving the penetration of active ingredients. When paired with targeted brightening cocktails, such as tranexamic acid, niacinamide, or vitamin C, it can really work to deliver visible pigment correction over time.
Why It works well in skin of colour
When performed at controlled needle depths (typically 0.25–0.5 mm for pigmentation), microneedling causes micro-injury without triggering PIH. The key is gentle technique, sterile conditions, and avoiding aggressive passes and device dragging that may cause trauma.
LED Phototherapy
LED light therapy, particularly red and near-infrared wavelengths, helps modulate inflammation, accelerate healing, and support the skin barrier post-peel or post-needling. For pigmentation, yellow light (around 590 nm) can further regulate melanocyte activity and reduce redness.
Used as a supportive adjunct, LED therapy enhances treatment tolerance in darker skin and shortens downtime between sessions.
NanoFractional Skin Ablation
Another technology I love to treat hyperpigmentation in skin of colour is NanoFractional Radiofrequency (RF). It combines controlled dermal ablation with fractional energy delivery to remodel the skin safely across all skin tones, including Fitzpatrick types V and VI.
How It Works
NanoFractional RF uses micro-pins to deliver targeted radiofrequency energy into the skin, creating micro-dermal injuries surrounded by healthy tissue. These controlled zones trigger fibroblast activity and accelerate regeneration without creating open wounds or stripping the epidermis. As these micro-wounds heal, the process helps to break up and disperse clusters of pigment. The result is a more even skin tone.
Unlike many traditional lasers, this tech minimally affects the skin's surface and avoids excessive heat, greatly reducing the risk of triggering PIH.
Benefits for Skin of Colour
Safe fractional resurfacing: Provides skin renewal without significant downtime.
Improves texture and tone: Addresses both surface pigmentation and acne scarring.
Stimulates collagen: Firming and rejuvenating the skin for an overall brighter complexion.
Minimal thermal injury: Reduced risk of PIH versus ablative lasers.
In pigmentation protocols, NanoFractional RF is particularly effective when combined with topical pigment modulators and LED therapy to calm the skin post-treatment.
Laser and Light-Based Treatments (Used Selectively)
Laser technology for pigmentation correction has advanced, but caution and education is essential in melanin-rich skin. Certain wavelengths, especially those that target melanin directly, can cause rebound hyperpigmentation or even hypopigmentation.
Safer Options
Nd:YAG 1064 nm lasers - These penetrate deeper into the dermis, bypassing epidermal melanin and minimising surface damage. Ideal for treating dermal pigmentation and melasma under expert supervision.
Low-fluence Q-switched protocols- Allow for gradual pigment reduction without thermal shock.
These treatments should only be carried out by practitioners experienced in treating darker skin tones, with thorough patch testing and conservative energy settings.
Combination Therapies and Maintenance
For most of my clients, the best outcomes have come from a multi-modality, holistic approach. For instance:
A course of The Green Peel, laser or NanoFractional RF to gently refine and renew over time
Followed by LED sessions to calm inflammation.
Then, periodic microneedling with pigment-inhibiting serums to maintain clarity.
At-home maintenance is equally important. I advise my clients to use daily broad-spectrum SPF 50, antioxidant serums, and topical tyrosinase inhibitors to help preserve clinic results and prevent hyperpigmentation recurrence.
Treating hyperpigmentation in skin of colour requires skill, patience, enhanced education and respect for the skin’s sensitivity. In my opinion, the most effective protocols combine biologically intelligent exfoliation, anti-inflammatory support, and ongoing pigment suppression, rather than harsh peeling or bleaching.
Carefully selected peels, when integrated into a broader, well-managed programme alongside microneedling, LED therapy, and gentle resurfacing, are a toolkit to enable you to deliver transformative results safely and predictably for clients of every skin tone.
