Rachel Sun's Journey From Home Manicures to Red Carpet Nails for Doechii
Spinning Buttons Nails for @doechii by @allhailthynail
In the world of celebrity nail art, Rachel Sun is having her moment—and we’re all here for it. As the creative mind behind ALLHAILTHYNAIL, Rachel has become synonymous with miniature masterpieces on nails. Her standout collaboration with Doechii for the Grammys, featuring Thom Browne-inspired nails complete with tactile textures, was nothing short of fashion magic. Rachel translates high fashion into wearable art, carefully crafting each design to effortlessly complement and elevate her client’s style and persona. In this interview she opens up to PBL Magazine about her artistic journey, her innovative use of unconventional materials, and the leap from creating nail art in her bedroom to becoming the go-to artist in editorial and celebrity circles.
PBL Magazine: Your nail designs, especially for Doechii, often feel like an extension of the artist’s persona. How do you approach designing for a client to ensure it complements their overall aesthetic?
Rachel Sun: Designing nails for a client is an exercise in mutual trust and deep understanding. When creating nail art for Doechii, my primary goal is to craft designs that enhance her overall aesthetic without competing for attention. I aim for the nails to function as a seamless accessory, complementing her outfit, makeup, and hairstyle in perfect harmony. My focus is always on achieving cohesion rather than introducing elements that might overshadow the rest of her look. Having worked with Doechii for some time now, I have gained a deeper understanding of her evolving persona. Yet, her artistry continues to transform, offering the perfect opportunity to experiment with new techniques and designs that align with her dynamic style.
Many of your looks, like the Thom Browne-inspired nails for the Grammys, are deeply conceptual. What’s your process for translating fashion into nail art?
Grammy nails for @doechii and team by @allhailthynail
I take a lot of inspiration from fashion: the textures, color palettes, silhouettes, etc. When creating the Thom Browne-inspired nails for Doechii, I sought to incorporate a texture that echoed the fabric of the designer's signature pieces: flocking powder. Instead of recreating “beat for beat” the outfits themselves, we opted for a design that would simultaneously make a statement and communicate “Thom Browne” while also ensuring the nails would fit in with all four outfits for the night.
You’ve mastered intricate textures and three-dimensional elements. Are there any materials or techniques you’re experimenting with that you think will push the boundaries of nail art even further?
I’m constantly seeking innovative materials to incorporate into my nail art. Recently, I began using fish scales to create a layered, reflective orb effect when encapsulated in gel, which adds a unique dimension to my designs. Looking ahead, I’m eager to explore the possibilities of 3D printing and design software, which would allow for even more intricate and personalized creations. As I delve more into the world of press-on nails, I find myself liberated from the constraints of practicality, giving me the freedom to push the boundaries of what can be achieved in nail art.
As an emerging artist who went from working in your bedroom to collaborating with major names, what do you think was the turning point in your career?
To be honest, every moment of my career has felt like a pivotal turning point. Each client I’ve worked with since the beginning has challenged me to expand the boundaries of my craft, and I’m deeply grateful for the incredible journey I’ve had so far. However, it was when I began to immerse myself in the editorial world that I truly sensed a shift in my career. This new chapter afforded me the opportunity to collaborate with exceptional artists across various mediums: fashion, hair, makeup, and beyond, which has been both inspiring and transformative. It has also encouraged me to continually explore new techniques, experiment with bold designs, and think far beyond traditional, practical limits.
What are the biggest challenges nail artists face in the industry today, and how do you navigate them?
One challenge I often see in the nail art industry—and that I also experience myself—is the lack of recognition for the complexity and skill involved in creating nail art. Nails are sometimes treated as an afterthought in many projects. Personally, I feel it’s only recently that people have started to give nails the attention they deserve and recognize their role in the bigger picture. Of course, not every project requires elaborate, intricate nails, but I believe nails are just as much an art form as any other creative medium.
Accent nails for @doechii by @allhailthynail
You often create nails for high-profile performances. How do you balance durability with aesthetics, ensuring the nails can withstand movement and long hours?
When designing nails for high-profile performances, balancing durability with aesthetics is crucial. While I always aim to create visually striking nails, the practicality and comfort of the performer are a top priority. Nails that are too long or delicate might look beautiful, but they can pose a safety risk or hinder movement, especially during intense performances. For these situations, I typically opt for shorter, sturdier designs that still maintain a strong aesthetic presence. By adjusting the thickness and length of the nails based on the type of performance, I ensure they can withstand the physical demands of the stage while also contributing to the overall look. Ultimately, the goal is to create nails that are not only beautiful but also functional, so performers can focus on their craft without worrying about their nails.
Vintage nails for @doechii by @allhailthynail during ABNH Tour
Many aspiring artists look up to you. What advice would you give nail techs who want to break into editorial and celebrity nail artistry?
It is really easy to get discouraged in this industry. You have to be very headstrong and determined, regardless of notoriety or positive feedback. In other words, don’t attribute your worth and success to how other people respond. Post your art and work as often as possible. In a highly digitalized age, it is very hard to get recognition without constantly putting yourself out there. As a perfectionist, I struggled a lot with not posting my work because I didn’t think it was good enough or interesting enough, but remember that you will improve and that people will find your art interesting. Finally, reach out to other emerging artists for collaborations, make connections and work together; have fun with it all!
What trends or innovations in nail artistry excite you the most right now?
I am really looking forward to the future of 3D printed nail art and definitely look up to a lot of artists who specialize in that medium.
If you could collaborate with any brand or designer on a nail collection, who would it be and why?
If I could collaborate with any brand or designer on a nail collection, it would be Vetements and Y/Project. Both of these brands push boundaries and redefine what fashion can be, which really resonates with my approach to nail art. I love experimenting with textures, shapes, and concepts that challenge traditional beauty standards, and Vetements and Y/Project do the same with designs. I would love to see nails positioned as a more prominent and rewearable accessory, showcased alongside clothing collections in the same way that handbags and shoes are.
