Understanding the Dangers of Airbrushing Gels
From intricately designed tattoos to flawlessly airbrushed cakes, airbrushing is an art form that has traversed industries, making a noteworthy impact in the beauty world. Lately, the trend of using airbrushing gels for nail art has captivated social media, creating beautiful smooth ombre effects but the risk associated with airbrushing are growing.
The beauty industry has raised its concerns, nail educator Jerri Cook, owner of dippycownails shares “While it isn’t the first time this has trended, it’s definitely the most visible with the increase in nail influencers on our platforms. This technique has become so popular, with some of the nail industry’s most recognized names regularly featuring this ‘hack’ in their content. These viral posts have undoubtedly led to clients requesting this effect but with no idea of the risks they and their nail tech face to achieve it. If a client is unaware of these risks they are unable to make an informed decision about proceeding. There’s no denying that airbrush designs look amazing, but mixing these chemicals or even using pre-mixed, curable gel airbrush paints is dangerous”.
…. So Gels are Monomers
Airbrushing, in essence, involves using an airbrush machine to spray gels mixed with acetone onto the nails. The result is a mesmerizing and smooth ombre effect. However, it's crucial to understand what happens to the gel when it's airbrushed.
The fundamental issue lies in the very nature of gels. “Gel products begin as monomers (highly reactive single molecules) before they’re cured. Monomers, when polymerized (cured), are used widely including, but not limited to, dental materials, biomaterials, and nail products. Gel products, when in contact with the body uncured (during application), are a regular exposure risk to nail professionals and reside on the body once cured for weeks at a time” shares Charlotte Seymour BSc, MSc, professional Nail Artist & Creator of Manicure Roulete.
Why are Uncured Monomers a Risk?
Uncured monomers are associated with allergic reactions in gel nails. By dispersing these minute molecules into the environment through the airbrush machine, we exacerbate the overexposure risk. Even using an LED lamp doesn't fully cure the gel polish mixed into the monomer, leaving uncured monomers that can cause health issues.
“As confirmed broadly in the field of science, the leading cause of adverse reactions to polymers (gel products included) is residual monomer. All polymeric reactions have some level of residual monomer; these are usually kept to a safe and tolerable level when products are polymerized correctly as instructed by the manufacturer.” shares Charlotte on the risks “In their unpolymerized form, monomers included in gel products would never be used within or on the body permanently due to their high reactivity with cells, the ability to cause unwanted bodily reactions, and carcinogenic potential. Gel products are only designed for use outside the body on the nail plate, applying with a brush onto nails only, always aiming to reduce exposure time to uncured monomer and ensure sufficient curing. This ensures the product is stable on a molecular level, does not exhibit high levels of reactivity with cells, limits unwanted reactions, and does not have carcinogenic potential.”
It is important to note that gel polishes are not intended to be vapourised or mixed with acetone. For health and safety reasons, and for insurance purposes, nail technicians are often instructed to not mix any nail chemicals together unless specifically directed by the manufacturer, and all products should be used as per manufacturer guidelines.
“All products used within the gel nail industry legally require a material safety data sheet (MSDS) supplied by the manufacturer. For Gel Polishes (and nearly all gel products), these usually state the products must not be ingested, inhaled, or inadvertently come into contact with eyes or skin due to their irritant and non-biocompatible nature when uncured. This is because when uncured, they cause unwanted bodily reactions and are not safe for use on (or inside) the body permanently. Please note that a brief encounter on a nail plate between cure cycles does not amount to the same exposure risk as slathering uncured gel products on the skin or inviting them into the body in any way.” continues Charlotte, “Therefore, vaporizing a mixture of highly reactive monomer with acetone into the air using airburshing machines can lead to the inhalation of highly reactive & non-biocompatible monomers, entering the body through the skin, eyes, mouth, and airways. In addition, gel products need to be cured under UV or LED light to polymerize. If monomers enter the body, this may never occur. Other ingredients in gel products and acetone will also be vaporized and enter the body, reacting with cells.
Continuous exposure to vaporized monomer over time will have a severe negative impact on the human body and health in individuals due to continuous, long-term exposure to monomers causing cellular reactions and changes. This has been noted in other industries, such as Dental Materials, where contact with monomers is taken extremely seriously, and specific safety training is required to handle such materials.
Most adverse reactions to gel products arise from exposure to monomers (uncured gel) on or inside the body as an immune response is formed. No matter what form of PPE you may wear, under no circumstance should a Gel Polish (or any gel product) be utilized in an airbrushing machine. It is not safe or designed to be used in a vaporized way. Misuse of such a product on a client may invalidate your insurance as the product has been used outside of the manufacturer's recommended process. This would be considered misuse of a product outside its intended purpose. Additionally, this may contribute to an increase in allergies to gel products, irrespective of whether the product itself is labeled ‘hypoallergenic’ or not.”
What about Acetone?
Additionally, acetone is a critical concern. It's not just flammable, but its vapors are combustible too! At a minimum, acetone can irritate your eyes, throat, and nose, induce vomiting, and even lead to unconsciousness. At worst, it's spontaneously combustible, and carrying out such a dangerous activity can void any insurance you have.
The Alternatives
Some might suggest using acrylic latex paint to airbrush as an alternative. However, acrylic paint should never touch your skin while it's wet due to the number of allergens in it. Latex, too, can cause severe allergic reactions in people unaware of their latex sensitivity. In fact, the risk associated with latex is why most hospitals and medical facilities no longer use latex gloves.
When it comes to nail art, there are safer ways to get creative without risking your health or insurance.
Powder Pigments: Powder pigments are a great alternative, giving vibrant colours and can be applied with specific nail tools for intricate designs.
Specialised Airbrush Paints: Opt for paints specifically made for airbrushing. These are formulated to be safer and typically contain fewer allergens.
Sponges: Sponges can be a fantastic way to create unique beautiful ombre effects.
In the pursuit of beauty and creative expression, it's essential to prioritize safety and health, especially given the responsibility a nail therapist has to their clients. The risks associated with airbrushing gels are too significant to ignore. Thankfully, safer alternatives can still deliver beautiful results without endangering ourselves or our clients. In the end, it's vital to remember: no trend is worth compromising our well-being, and following manufacturer guidelines is key to ensuring that products are used safely and as that were tested to be used.